Back at the start of this year I ran my first “mountain trail run” race, the South Island's Goat Race over the Croesus Track on the West Coast. At 26km with just over 1000m of elevation gain, it's fair to say I underestimated the course a little, and boy it was tough!! Ten months later and I am toying with signing myself up for this sucker once again, so this week I set out for a training run/walk along part of the track, to familiarise myself with what I am in for. The Croesus track itself runs for 18km across the Paparoa Range between Blackball (home to damn fine salami) in the east, and Barrytown (best live music venue on the 'Coast) in the west. The trail's history dates back to the early gold mining days of the 1860's, and was reopened to trampers in 1988 thanks to the hard work of a local NZ Forest Service legend, the late Ces Clark, namesake for the super cool Ces Clark hut below Croesus Knob. The trail is by all accounts best walked from east to west, with a lovely gentle ascent along a benched trail from Smoke ho car park to Ces Clark hut. However the race of course runs the opposite direction - I remember this section bringing me so much joy to run down, and a rad mountain cabbage tree partially overhanging the track made me break into a big grin. This week I also ran from the west (might as well get a taste for the worst of it eh!) The trail from Barrytown starts off winding up long switchbacks through lush west coast forest of Nikau palms, tree ferns and supple jack. After about 30 minutes of running the track began to remind me who's boss, climbing more steeply. From there, sections of challenging ascent alternated with mellower stretches. It felt like this went on forever, and I thought I would never reach the bushline and all the grandeur of the tops. But finally, after nearly two hours I popped out into the mist of low cloud that seems always to shroud the Paparoas. Continuing from Mt Ryall to Ces Clark hut, the trail mostly follows fairly well defined ridges and makes for great trail running. The cloud lifted and I was treated to views down the West Coast, Niaku palms and beaches, and across the Grey Valley. Feeling great! The hut is at 11.7km from Barrytown, so I appreciated the excuse for a rest stop to check it out. With great big windows on two walls, a fireplace, and platform bunks, this hut is really cool and makes for an awesome sunny lunch spot with views. It would be magic to spend a night here over winter! The return trip was pretty tough going, but the time spent above the bushline was pretty epic. For a more enjoyable run I think I would come from the Blackball side, but running from the West meant I could jump in the ocean on my drive home, which was a pretty great way to cap off a great day. For those with more time (i.e. walking!), there are a couple of side trip options including Croesus Knob and Mt Watson, and plenty of historical points of interest. A pretty cool wee track here on our door step!
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I am a conservation field worker in New Zealand. I love mountains, sunrises, river swims, barefeet, cold beer, campfires, live music and whiskey.
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