A few weeks back, I sat atop Mt Brown, out the back of Hokitika, and had a realisation. It dawned on me that of late I tend think of overseas travel with excitement, while not feeling quite the same enthusiasm for visiting new places in New Zealand – yet this country is freaking epic, and there are still ooodles of spots I have yet to visit! I remembered how much joy I got from writing this blog as I explored last year, and so decided it is time to revive and continue it, in this less-transient phase of my life, and share with the world my magnificent backyard! Therefore, first up, Mt Brown... Overlooking Lake Kaniere, about a twenty minute drive from Hokitika, Mt Brown is an easily accessible overnight walk, and yet it took me bloody ages to get around to getting up there. When a new friend made his way up from Wanaka, and with an uncharacteristically sunny weather forecast, we decided it was time.
The track is maintained by volunteers from the community, and is well marked and easy to follow, but pretty steep in parts – not technically challenging, but a grunt. We left late in the afternoon, and with a pack full of whiskey and a bloody minded determination to reach the hut by sunset, we dragged out sweating, puffing bodies through 1000m elevation gain. As the vegetation changed from lush West Coast forest, into subalpine scrub, I let out a gleeful squeal at seeing Dracophyllum traversii again, with his thicky curling leaves in Dr Seuss-like tufts. We ambled through the tussocks, and suddenly the bright Forest Service-orange hut appeared, nestled into the hillside. It had taken us less than two and a half hours, and we were stoked! Another couple had beaten us up, but we were lucky there were two more beds, so no one had to sleep outside – but if planning this hike on a summer's weekend, it would be wise to take a tent. The hut is also maintained by volunteers, and is a real testament to the community, as it is tidy and in good nick, and suuuuuper cute!!! Plus they keep it stocked with coal through the winter, for the wee 'Lil Cracker' firebox. Having enjoyed a glorious sunset, I set my alarm nice n early and set out for the summit in the pre-dawn darkness. It only took me about 30minutes, easy travel along the ridge. As I sat awaiting the first pale dusting of light on the mountainous horizon, I heard two kiwi calling to each other in the valley below me. I followed their back-and-forth for probably half an hour, silently cheering them on as they got nearer and nearer to one other. As the world awoke, other birds took over, the rowdy weka letting everyone know it was morning. The sky softly faded through soft pastel shades, bathing the surrounding snowy peaks in daylight. I wondered how I could ever want more from life than to sit amongst such magic, and I made a quiet deal with myself to seek these moments more often, to not waste a single opportunity, to spend more time in the NZ backcountry and love the shiiiiit out of it. And so, I leave this story to be continued....
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I am a conservation field worker in New Zealand. I love mountains, sunrises, river swims, barefeet, cold beer, campfires, live music and whiskey.
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