After spending many an hour studying different blogs and websites I was convinced that the Salkantay Trek was the perfect hiking adventure to rebalance after two weeks at the UN. I didn't manage to talk any friends into it, so I stocked up and set off on my own... Day One: Cusco to Pampa Salkantay I wandered down to Larcomar at 4.15am to find myself a collectivo van, the cheapest way to Mollepata, the nearest village to the trailhead. After arguing with a taxi driver and having a moment of nerves as it appeared none of the vans were headed that way, finally a driver waved me over and I was on my way for 15 soles (about NZ$7). As I stared sleepily out the window the dawn gradually lit up the countryside, granting me my first taste of Peru's mountains, and excitement started to bubble up in my tummy. As we neared Mollepata we picked up a handful of small kids hitch hiking the long walk to school. They brought an air of excitement to the van, grinning away. Reaching Mollepata I negotiated a ride to the trailhead at Soraypampa. The driver didn't want to take me the whole way, but offered to take me to Marcocasa, which he assured me was only a three hour walk to Soraypampa. It turns out that the trail from there is much less used, and it took me about five hours to get to Soraypampa, up some serious mountains. However the walk from Marcocasa was one of my favourite parts of the trip, as the only people I encountered were a couple of school kids and a small number of peasant farmers. I also met two pretty nervous alpacas, and the mountains were incredible, revealing themselves between waves of cloud. When my trail met the road to Soraypampa I met two American guys, Robert and Keith, who would become my two new best friends. We had been walking together barely ten minutes when we saw a condor, and all stood breathless watching it take off and soar down-valley. From Soraypampa, one of the guides (there are MANY groups on the main trail walking with guides and mules) told me that if I kept walking another two hours, the campground at Pampa Salkantay was much nicer and I would avoid the crowds. My new friends had already boosted ahead to attempt the pass, so I pushed my tired legs onward. An hour later I found Robbie and Keith headed back, telling me the weather was packing in and they could see the rain. Seeing that I was keen to continue anyway, they joined me and turned back around. Pampa Salkantay was indeed gorgeous, and we camped in a rock bivvy at 4,200m surrounded by mighty maunga. Day Two: Pampa Salkantay to Collpapampa The following morning we were awoken by swarms of hikers admiring our campsite, a bit of a shock to the system after a peaceful night. We joined the crowds and began the tough morning ascent to El Paso. I was so very grateful to have two other solo hikers for solidarity, as group after group hiked past without packs, or riding mules, while we struggled with the altitude, the gradient, and our hefty packs. The views made it oh so worth it though, and that wonderful combination of endorphins and mountain stoke had me grinning like those kids in the collectivo. Shit.Yeah. Making our way down the other side the weather worsened, and by lunch time we were maybe a little envious of the groups with hot meals awaiting them. We gathered in the spare shelter with the stray dogs and cooked noodles, giving each other pep talks. During the afternoon the scenery began to change and we saw more vegetation. The boys began to lose me to endless plant gawking as I marvelled at the biodiversity thriving at such altitude. Around 4.30pm we arrived at the point where the groups would spend the night. So far we'd had our hearts set on making it to the thermal springs at Collpapampa, but had been told it was much too far to make that day. I sought advice from one of the hosts and learned that it really wasn't much further, so I coerced the lads into walking just a little further. We set up camp on a woman's lawn in Collpapampa (only another 20min on the road!), and walked the extra 20minutes down to the springs. After a delicious hour soaking our exhausted muscles, we made our way back to camp amid a flurry of fireflies, and ate a hot meal our host had prepared for us. Utter perfection. Day Three: Collpapampa to Llactapata This morning as the first groups arrived in the village, we were sitting on the porch enjoying a cooked breakfast, smiling sweetly at them over our coffee. Muahaha. That breakfast did us a world of good too, and we found to our surprise that we passed most of the groups and caught up to the lead hikers before lunch. The trail was gorgeous, following the river and winding in and out of jungle. Wild strawberries lined the path, and the most beautiful flowers of every colour. We crossed several rustic log bridges, passed a man leading a pig, and seemed to arrive into La Playa just as school had finished for the holidays -– Robbie took great pleasure in wishing the kids 'feliz navidad', and they loved it. So bloody cute. We took a hearty lunch at La Playa, knowing we faced a brutal ascent in the afternoon. Many of the guides told us not to head to Llactapata that day, and there was a bit of a lunchtime domestic between the bro's about their plans. In the end we all pressed on. In the next three hours we gained 1000m elevation, following an old Inca trail. It was killer, in every meaning of the word. Awesome, stunning, intense, tough. We fell in love with these flocks of small bright green birds which swooped above the treetops, squawking like mad. So gorgeous from above. The trail eventually curved around to lead us into the next valley and just as the Tres Amigos were getting pretty weary, an old Inca wall came into view. Engulfed by adrenaline I broke into a run (slash awkward jog), emerging into a clearing in front of the Llactapata Inca ruins, overlooking Machu Picchu. It was everything I had hoped for and totally took my breath away. We set up camp by the ruins and watched the light fade over Machu before setting off down the trail, following a sign promising ten minutes to hot showers,water and food. The boys went ahead. Thirty minutes later I emerged muddy, bleeding, exhausted, to learn that there were no hot showers or food, but I could buy a small bottle of water for five soles. So much rage. To be fair it is the off-peak season, but... There is no reasoning with a tired grumpy pixie. So it was an uphill mission by headlamp through the jungle back to camp. The heat was smothering, and clothes just weren't that fun. We got back to camp to find we had company -– their minds must have boggled as I emerged from the jungle barefoot and muddy, wearing only a headlamp and undies and ROARRRRING!!!! This was the best night of them all, as the sky cleared and I got the starry night I had hoped for. We could also see a far away lightning storm shuddering over the mountains. Amazing. Day Four: Llactapata to Hydroelectrica to Cusco
We awoke bright and early to watch the day break over Machu, and then faced the steep downhill to Hydro. It took us maybe three hours, and then it was time to part ways. I had decided not to shell out the big bucks to do Machu Pichu, but to use the extra day to set off for Lake Titicaca and get to see a little more. So I bid those two wonderful men farewell and sat down to a kick ass chicken meal before catching a taxi and two collectivos back to Cusco. We ended up taking all kinds of rural side routes to drop people at their farms, which was actually really special. I got to see men working their oxen in the fields, peasant women in their colourful dresses, adorable towns with cobbled streets and a picturesque lake. The Salkantay was one of the toughest hikes I have ever done, but I would absolutely recommend it. The diversity of landscapes, the novelty of staying in quaint towns and eating (super cheap) local food, and THOSE MOUNTAINS! Just do it. I'm hooked. I can't wait to return and hike the crap out of these mountains. Shit yeah.
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I am a conservation field worker in New Zealand. I love mountains, sunrises, river swims, barefeet, cold beer, campfires, live music and whiskey. Archives
December 2014
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