Eager to go walkabout, I caught the ferry over to Santa Cruz Island, the largest of the four islands which make up the Channel Islands National Park. On the way over a mother blue whale with calf surfaced right alongside the boat. The blue whale is the largest animal to have ever lived on this earth. Unreal. I was straight out onto the trails, along a rugged coastline of bluffs, with a backdrop not unlike Central Otago.
The sunsets were stunning, with seabirds soaring past me, riding the ocean winds. Seeing the flocks of brown pelican was particularly special, a truly remarkable bird which was almost lost forever. Amid rising concerns about pesticide use in the 1960s, scientists were able to pinpoint contamination from DDT in mainland sewers, flowing out to sea and entering the food chain, disrupting the reproductive cycle of the pelicans. The federal government listed the brown pelican as an endangered species in 1970, at which point only one chick survived on West Anacapa Island. DDT was banned in 1972, and by 2009 the brown pelican had recovered enough to be removed from the endangered species list. There are now some 6,000 nesting pairs raising chicks on West Anacapa each year. Cool story right? The inland trail over Montanon Ridge is stunning and exhausting, with almost no shelter and soaring temperatures. The plant diversity is fascinating, with a high proportion of endemic species, and some fantastic cacti. I befriended the kayak guide crew and they showed me how you can suck the berries of the ‘lemonade berry’ plant, and it tastes just like sherbet. They were a cool crew of guys with a raft of interesting projects on the go. I passed a pleasant evening with them, drinking beer and climbing to watch the sunset. After climbing to see the sunrise, the Smuggler’s Cove trail was a much cruisier option, which I was surprised to finish before lunch, even with a swim and some time spent reflecting at a secluded lookout point. While trails like this one are easy going, the heat really makes you appreciate this, and it was still gorgeous. The unique island fox (not much bigger than a cat) is everywhere, and so damn cute! I had one following me for awhile, pausing every time I turned around. Other local characters include pretty little lizards, and the somehow intimidating ravens. The island also has a rich history of habitation by the Chumash Indians, who crafted a trading currency using seashells collected here. A wonderful escape of delicious freedom,which left me feeling nature drunk and happy.
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I am a conservation field worker in New Zealand. I love mountains, sunrises, river swims, barefeet, cold beer, campfires, live music and whiskey. Archives
December 2014
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